CHASING WAVES

“Some may call it insanity - but to us, the thrill of surfing makes the 4 am wake-up calls, jellyfish stings, hostile locals and horrible sunburns worth while. Cuts, bruises and aches are part of the game, and just keep us coming back for more.”

I think all surfers share the same complacent passion for the ocean. we’ll do just about anything for the feeling of a solid ride, and stay out in the water far past the point of exhaustion for ‘just one more’. Some may call it insanity - but to us, the thrill of surfing makes the 4 am wake-up calls, jellyfish stings, hostile locals and horrible sunburns worth while. Cuts, bruises and aches are part of the game, and just keep us coming back for more.

During a mission to a new wave in El Salvador, complacency had never been more evident. the Spanish bloke who took the final seat on our boat suffered a fin to the forehead during a session at a wave called Punta Mango. We were forced to abandon our session early as the boat hurried back to dry land. Our new friend rushed to the nearest clinic to get medical attention.

30 stitches later, I can only imagine the stories he’ll be telling his grandchildren about how he got that scar.

Las Flores, El Salvador

April 2018

Canon AE-1